Since I started building dioramas I've had a problem with roads. I tried several different methods and was never satisfied or it seemed to take entirely too long. The best results I had were using flat black paint and then weathering the color of the road with paint or ink washes and powders. They didn't look too bad, but they still looked like painted roads to me.

I sort of stumbled onto this method of making roads because of a series of problems. After a lot of failed attempts I finally came up with a way to make roads that is fairly easy and very durable. Durability is important to me because my dioramas get moved around a lot and put in and out of boxes. With this method of making roads a little chip or scratch doesn't really affect the road surface the way it would if they were painted.

Here’s a list of supplies that I use to make roads.



9 oz Paper Cups
Plaster of Paris
16 oz. Spray Bottle
Elmer's White Glue
Dawn Dish Detergent (original blue)
Isopropyl Alcohol
Measuring Cups
Measuring Spoons
2 Wood Paint Stirring Sticks
Acrylic Paint: (I use Folk Art)
#479 Pure Black
#901 Wicker White
#736 School Bus Yellow
Ruler
Tongue Depressors
Trowel
Razor Blade or X-Acto Knife
Masking Tape ( I like the blue painters tape because it isn't as sticky as regular masking tape)
Talus (Woodland Scenics Fine Gray)
Water



Dullcote, Flat Clear or Workable Fixatif


You'll also need what ever type of ground cover you like to use. I use real dirt and Woodland Scenics various turfs and grass.

Fill the spray bottle with 3 oz. of alcohol, ¼ teaspoon of dawn, and fill the rest with water.


I made a base just for this demonstration using ½” plywood and 1” blue foam insulation. I don't like the blue foam very much. I think that it's too soft for a diorama base. The base is very simple. I used Gorilla glue to attach a larger piece of foam to the plywood. After the glue dried I trimmed away the excess (not very well) with a razor knife. Then painted the top black.



















The first step in making the road is to tape out where you want it. I wanted a straight road on a little bit of an angle. I started with the edge closest to the edge of the base and put the tape down using a ruler to make sure it was fairly straight. For HO scale 2 lane roads I make them 3 inches wide. I'm not sure if this is to scale or not, but I've kept it consistent on all my dioramas and the cars seem to look right in that space.



I measure from 3” from the edge of the first tape and lay down another straight line of tape. Then I put a second layer of tape on top of the first. The reason for this is when the plaster starts setting up one layer of tape seems to rip and it's difficult to get it started again without messing up the road. Two layers make the tape strong enough to lift the plaster without tearing the tape.





Once the tape is down its time to mix the ‘blacktop’. I start by measuring out one cup of plaster and setting it aside.



Then I measure out 1/3 cup of water. Pour that in a paper cup.





Then add 1 tablespoon of Elmer’s glue.





This gives the plaster a little bit of flexible. Mix the glue and the water until there is a smooth consistency.



Add 2 tablespoons of black paint.




Add ¼ teaspoon of Dawn. The Dawn cuts the tension in the water. This makes the mix flow better and dry more evenly.



Add 1 tablespoon of alcohol. The alcohol makes the mix dry faster. Stir this until it is mixed well.







Add plaster a little at a time. Try to keep the mix creamy. Stir this until it is all mixed.








If it is too thick to spread add a little more water until it is smoother, but still fairly firm.




I mist the road area with the water, alcohol & Dawn mix. Pour or trowel some plaster down and spread it around the surface. Don't worry about getting it smooth, only a fairly even thickness is necessary at this point.







For a rough looking road or a thin layer I smooth the plaster with a trowel and the edge of a tongue depressor after there is an even layer down.

For a smooth road place a paint stick on both sides of the road and use a tongue depressor to spread the plaster. This thickness takes a bit longer to dry, but it makes a nice even road.



I start at one end and put a lump of wet plaster in front of the tongue depressor and pull it across to even the road surface.



Once the surface is fairly smooth and even I mist it with the water, alcohol, and Dawn.



Using a clean tongue depressor tilted slightly up with very light pressure I pull it across the road and this gives the surface a smoother finish and gets most of the marks out left by pulling the plaster across previously.



That's all for this step other then removing the paint sticks along the edge before they stick to the plaster.







Once the plaster starts to set up it can be made even smoother by pulling a wet tongue depressor across it.



As soon as the plaster is firm pull the tape up. Pulling straight up or straight back seems to be the best method. If the plaster dries too long before you pull the tape up it will stick and crack the road.



At this point I leave it alone until it is completely cured. I usually leave it alone for 24 hours.




Save the cup that you mixed the plaster in and let it dry. I’ll explain this later.

I decided to make a side road using a different looking road surface. To make a curve I use wide masking tape and draw one side of the road.





Measure to the other side and make a dotted line then connect the dots.





I use a razorblade rather than an X-Acto knife only because it's more comfortable for me.





Once the road is cut out and another batch of plaster is mixed I add Talus to the mix.







This should be thick, almost the constancy of chunky peanut butter.



This is thick and a little hard to spread. I push down on it until it crunches as I spread it.



It looks sloppy and uneven. That's ok, as long as there are no deep holes.






I normally get holes and empty spaces after I spread it. Just fill them and smooth it with a trowel. Don't worry about getting it smooth. All that is needed is an even coverage.

Pull the tap up right away. Talus mixed in the plaster makes it sets up faster than without it.





Let this dry.



You can see how rough the surface is after it's dry.



Use 150 grit sandpaper to smooth it out.



As you sand you'll see the surface begin to change. It turns a gray/black color and the pieces of Talus start showing up light gray.





I use 220 grit sandpaper to sand the smooth road. I just rub it lightly and knock off any high spots. Sand in the direction of the road. The color will change and the imperfections in the plaster will start showing up.





The color might look a little strange at this point. It will change after it gets a coat of Dullcote





I put a sheet of newspaper under the base so I could catch this dust. I save it in a cup to use later.



After I brush the dust off I wipe any excess dust off with a damp paper towel.





It's starting to look like a road, but it needs lines. Starting at the sides I lay a piece of tape as close to the edge as I can get it without going off the road.



Then lay a piece down the center or the road. Press this down really firmly.



Using a straightedge measure in 1/16” and cut. Then measure 1/16” from that line toward the center of the road and cut.



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I cut the part I want to pull up across in the center then hold a blade against the end and snap the end of the tape off.



After one side is cut measure over to the other side of the road to make sure that the lines will be parallel.



Once both sides are cut find the center of the road and mark it at both ends. Measure 3/32” from the center line and make a cut. Then, measure 1/16” toward the center and make another cut. Repeat this two more times and there will be 4 cut lines. Pull the tape up to make a double line down the center of the road.



Be sure to press the tape down firmly across the entire road. The tape doesn't stick to the plaster very well.



Add extra tape to the outside edges of the road.



Paint the white lines along the outside edge of the road. I don't worry about getting it smooth. I dab the paint on so that it fills any pits or uneven parts of the road and then drag the brush across it once or twice to even it out. A little on the thick side is ok.







The yellow is a little different because it's hard to cover black with yellow. I put on one thin coat. Let it set up for a few minutes and then ad a thick coat over top of it.





Pull the tape up as quickly as possible. If the paint dries it will stick to the tape and chip when the tape is pulled up. Pulling straight up or towards the painted surface works best.





After the paint is dry any bad spots can be flicked off with a razor blade or X-Acto knife.



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The painted plaster is a little fragile. To protect it I use a coat of Krylon Workable Fixatif or Dullcote to protect it.



The next step is landscaping. I cover the entire surface with Elmer's glue and sprinkle dirt on it. Some people like to thin the glue to do this. I thin the glue for grass, but for straight dirt I’ve found that the thicker the glue the more dirt says stuck. No right or wrong way, just a matter of choice.







A splatter screen from the dollar store works nice for spreading dirt evenly. If I want rocks I just dump a bunch of dirt on and let the glue dry.





After it's dry remove any excess dirt.



For the gravel look along the edge of the road I use Talus.



Add a wide bead of glue along the edge of the road.



I use a brush that is dampened in water to brush out the glue.



Sprinkle on some Talus. Let it dry and remove any excess.



That dried up plaster that is left in the cup is good stuff. Squeeze the cup and break the plaster up.



It looks like broken up blacktop.



This can be used for piles of rubble, dump truck loads or other scenic stuff. It can also be crushed up and used like weather powders.
The dust that was left over from the sanding can be used like a weathering powder too.



Take some of the sanding dust and dump it out on a piece of paper.



Fill a fluffy brush with it.



Use the brush to brush it over the entire road. This will highlight the imperfections, make the lines look dirty and take any shine off of the painted lines.



I drag my fingertips down the center of each lane to remove some of the excess dust. Some dry plaster can be used to add some highlights, also.



That finishes the road. All that is left is a coat of Dullcote to seal the surface.