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* Captain's log: since following this reggie, I am now a little past APL in March 2010 coming from CBL in August 2009 after the chop. I added MN to my Megatek mix and got an amazing 1.5 minimum growth between Feb and March 2010. - 25th March 2010
*Captain's log: we are at the tail end of August 2009 *
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Now that I have embarked on this new journey (from NL to Mid-back), I thought it would make sense to document exactly what my regimen is, what products/techniques I am going to use and why. This will make it easier for those of you watching, and me to analyse the reggie.
I'm just mindful of making silly mistakes with my hair again by forgetting the basics! Any input is welcomed and appreciated. Ok here goes....
*We have the technology...we can rebuild it!*
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Here we go then...this is operation 'get it back' in effect!
Going to grow this hair and document every step of the way in here and my fotki as much as I can! Going to tex-lax on Friday so will be back with pics on the weekend.
Right, let's begin.
So I've learned some things about my hair over the past two years that I have been actively growing it:
-My hair while very thick and coarse in natural state (4b), becomes vulnerable when relaxed bone straight. Even if I stretch my relaxers (which I do), I need to tex-lax to keep the strength.
- My hair does grow in thick and fast with certain growth aids. MegaTek and MN with Sulphur both got my roots growing well. I will incorporate both of these in my recovery plan (just sulphur now and not MN though).
- My hair does not like to be corn-rowed! It is just too much manipulation! I always get breakage with these protective styling methods without fail once I do them as a routine. If I ever have cornrows under a weave again, I will take down every two weeks with a week break in between. I will never do a six-week stretch again - even if I am co-washing throughout.
*edit* I can now cornrow for up to 4 weeks under a weave net and co-wash/dc etc and my hair will be fine after take down. I only use my own hair to braid now. - March 2010*
- My hair in relaxed state cannot tolerate kanekalon fibre braids for long stretches of time. This means 2 weeks and up. I will ban the use of this synthetic fibre for braiding (if I ever braid again!) and will only use human hair - or better still, just my own hair.
- My hair likes protein, moisture and oil. My scalp likes oil. I have to keep the balance in check though or risk more breakage.
- Relaxer stretches are good for my hair, but only up until 4 months. After that, there are tangles galore and all hell breaks loose.
- Tex-laxing is a good middle ground for my hair. I will do this from now on.
- Going natural is a no-no for me because my scalp is tender and my afro hair is very tough (comb breaker). I have tried to each time I've had a set back and had a twa in 2000 (after permanent colouring damage) and again in 2003 (color damage again - why did I NOT learn?). Each time even the best hair care methods were nothing in the face of my hair. And yes, I would cry each time I had to braid my hair for the weaves when I had a pure afro. I love my hair texture; it is just difficult to bear the pain that comes with it! - Update Equss Avocado mist makes my ng so soft! I might be able to go natural with the help of this product or even go for 6 - 8 month stretches! We shall see though.....
- Baggying helps me retain length. Not baggying regularly leave my ends vulnerable.
- My ends love Profectiv healthy-ends and a castor oil seal!
- My hair loves EVOO, EVCO hot oil pre-poo.
- My hair loves co-washes and it keeps the ng soft.
- Whole head baggies under my wigs keep my ng hair soft.
- Air-drying is better in rollers or flexi-rods or in 4 box braids under my wig. Wash and go, is a no go for my hair.
- Dusting and trims keep my hair from excessive tangling.
- Hand held hair dryer is murder to my hair strands
- My mental state and external factors (diet, stress etc) affect my hair a lot these days. Need to keep this in check.
- Biotin, silica and msm are good for my hair and nails
_ Washing my hair in 4 box braids helps retain length and stops breakage from manipulation when the strands are weakest (when wet).
- Aphogee treatment for damaged hair keeps my hair strong
- Raw shea butter and honey hot oil treatment makes my hair shiny (in my fotki, October 2008)
- My hair likes henna!
- Working out regularly and a good diet rich in nutrients, water and protein is good for my hair, skin, nails and general health
- I can grow my hair to 'long' lengths without any issues if I just keep my regimen on point!
I have included pics of all the products/treatments I will be utilising on my plan. This is the regimen I will follow and tweak as needed.
* Co-wash 3x a week or 2x a week and 1x shampoo on alternate weeks
* DC with every wash for at least 15 mins and long dc once a week (typically Friday night or Saturday or sleep in it!)
* Use MegaTek mix after every wash and Sulphur mix on alternate days
* Baggy hair under wig once dry from co-wash. Typically the day after
* Wash hair in 4 box braids or cornrows depending on what protective style I am wearing.
* Detangle thoroughly every week or 2 weeks (when I take down braids) without fail.
* Aphogee treatment every 6 to 8 weeks without fail
* Baggy using avocado mist on ng, break free on relaxed hair, healthy ends on ends and hair line/nape, seal with Castor oil
* Tex-lax every 4 months (16 weeks)
* Length check at the end of each month and post to fotki
* Trim as needed, but do not let ends become jagged
* Honey and shea butter hair masque as needed
* Drink 2 litres of water daily, work out 5x a week and eat lots of fruit, veg, and protein
* Vits daily (but take breaks) Biotin, MSM, B-complex and Silica (I also take others, but the four listed are just for hair growth
* Use conditioner mix and ORS replenishing on alternate weekends
* Clarify every six weeks without fail, preferably before the Aphogee treatment
Phew! That's it for now and I will add more as I go along!
Thanks so much for the support ladies - you are a rock!
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Ok ladies - I am going to document my recovery back to good healthy (and long!) hair in this thread. I hope to be an inspiration to those that have major setbacks and are worried about getting back on track.
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*The baggy technique*
The good old tried and trusted baggy technique. This method works for stopping hair breakage at the ends of the hair (which we all know is the weakest part).
I have a baggy tutorial in my fotki, but please also check out dontspeakdefeat and McWifey for baggy resources.
The baggy keeps moisture and oil locked inside the hair and virtually eliminates breakage for me when done correctly.
My baggy steps are -
- Start with my airdried box braids or blow dried hair. I only baggy on dry hair to avoid 'over- moisturised mushy' ends. If I start dry, I can gauge exactly how much of each product my hair needs.
- Spray a water based moisturising product on new afro growth and rest of my chemically relaxed or tex-laxed hair. I have used s-curl moisturising spray and have recently switched to Equss avocado mist. Other good ones are glycerine and water mixes, care free curl or wave nouveau sprays.
- Apply a hair strengther or repair ideally water based creme. This is good for my 4b coarse hair. I apply a small amount of Profectiv break-free which is a light creme that does exactly what it says on the tin!
- Apply an end strengther. I use Profectiv Healthy ends. It is a very thick creme and virtually suffocates the hair with goodness. Use this daily on trimmed ends (or even scraggly ones!) and they will not break. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY.
- Seal it all with a thick oil. You only need a little oil on your ends (and edges if you want) only. I swear by castor oil, but coconut, avocado or olive oils are also good alternatives.
At this point, I usually pin my box braids up on my head and then put on a clear plastic bag (or clear plastic cap - yes the old jherri curl ones that you mama used to use at night) and tie it. I do a whole head baggy and then put my wig-cap on top of that, then scarf to bed or put the wig on to go out.
You can do a ponytail only baggy or ends only baggy if you wear your hair out and take it down in the mornings. Your ends will thank you for it!
When I get back from work, I take off the baggy and let my hair air dry while still pinned up. If it is wash day, I'll do my co-wash as normal, add megatek to my scalp, spray some infusium 23 on my braids and healthy-ends. I put on my wig cap and then my scarf to bed. By morning my hair is usually dry, but I won't re-baggy until I come home that evening.
*Regular trims*
The jury is out on this, but from experience, regular trims help with hair length retention, becuase they eliminate the chance of split ends and tangling. This is especially important if you like to stretch relalxers or are transtioioning.
- As a rule, I will trim an inch or less with each chemical service, which for me is about every 4 - 6 months.
- A good blunt trim is a good starting point for anyone starting a new haircare journey and you can also maintain the blunt, healthier ends by using the baggy method.
- Assess your ends regularly (once a month is typical for me) and do 'search and destroy' trims if you need them.
- Be careful of being too scissor happy though. You will not see any length if you cut off 3 inches of hair every 6 months!
*Deep conditioning*
Why do I do 'hard' deep conditioning session each week? (i.e. Leave on for at least 20 mins under the dryer and plastic cap).
Well a good dc will make your hair healthy and leave it in tip top shape for everyday wear.
There are different kinds of dc that I like to do :
*Protein rich*
I do an Aphogee treatment for damaged hair every 6 - 8 weeks without fail. This is an excellent product that can literally stop breakage in its tracks if used properly.
It rebuilds the hair structure (i.e. fills in the microscopic cracks and damage from heat, chemicals, harsh handling etc) for about 6 weeks, leaving your hair feeling strong.
This treatment MUST be followed up with a moisturising deep conditioner, or your hair will be hard from the protein. Somebody I know called Aphogee treatment 'super egg' and I am inclined to agree with them!
*Moisture rich*
Believe it or not, our hair needs water and not grease for moisture! I will typically do a moisturising only deep condition if my hair feels extra dry (which is quite rare becuase I co-wash 3x week and baggy daily).
Keracare Humecto and Nexxus Humectress are excellent moisturising condishes. I am currently using Humecto and it is fab on my hair. I always use this directly after a henna treatment.
- Once I put the condish on my head, I will put a plastic cap on (or grocery store carrier bag works too), and go under my soft bonnet dryer (thanks wifey!) for 20 minutes, and then walk around with the dc cap still on until an hour is up and then wash it out.
*Mix of protein and moisture condish*
I do these each weekend without fail. I have two seperate ones that I use on alternate weeks.
The first being: ORS replinishing conditioner.
Hands down, this is probably the best 'all-rounder' that I have ever used. It leaves ng and relaxed ends soft, yet you can feel the strength in your hair. It aslo smells good to boot!
This is also good for detangling hair, becuase it gives tremendous slip. My bff tried this and didn't want to give back the bottle! LOL!
- I try to massage this in as I apply it and really rub it into my hair. I do not comb thru, as I know that hair is weakest when wet or very damp. After that, I'll put on a plastic cap and then dc under the dryer for 20 mins and leave in for up to an hour before rinsing.
*My own deep con 'mix'*
I've always mixed things into my condtioner, but became hardcore after joining the hair boards. Here is what I put in and why:
Le Kair cholesterol thick condish - this is a long time staple of mine and I have used since childhood. It's nice, thick and creamy. My hair loves this - also it is a mild protein and also moisturises. This is the main body of the mix and takes about 50% of it.
Roux Porousity control - to 'fix' my hair and stop the frizzies. I add a dollop of this to my mix.
Keracare Humecto - to add more moisture and slip to my hair.
Extra Virgin Olive oil - to keep my hair shiny,dark and nourished.
Coconut oil - This oil penetrates the hair shaft to give deep repair and shine
Carrot oil (Africa's best) - Can't remember why, but my hair loves this oil!
All my condishes/treatments etc are pictured in my fotki albums.
*My own deep moisturising deep con mix*
I made this to use after an Aphogee 2 -step protein treatment or as a follow up to henna.
It consists of -
- Keracare Humecto
- Tressemme Salon silk and Tressemme Moisturing condish
- a large squidge of Herbal essences hello hydration
- another squidge of gylcerin
- Equyss avocado mist
- Any other moisturising condishes in my stash will get dumped in and I mix up. My hair is usually really great after using the mix under heat for 30 mins or more.
*Pre-poo hot oil treatment*
This is what some of us drier haired gals do before a shampoo to keep it from stripping our hair of much needed moisture.
I mix extra virgin olive oil, extra virgin coconut oil in a bowl and warm up in the microwave for anout 50 seconds to make it hot/melt. I have been putting garlic powder into this mix since starting to use Megatek for growth. The garlic stops the shedding that sometimes comes with accelerated hair growth.
I put the hot oil (but not boiling!) on my hair, put on a plastic bag and leave for 30 mins before shampooing out. I also do this even if I am co-washing that weekend. My 4b hair loves the oils! They are both very healthy and nourishing oils that are packed with 'good' fats. The shine they leave does not hurt either!
*Edited* I now add organic sunflower oil to this mix becuase it contains ceramides which we also need in conjunction with getting the moisture/protein balance on track.
*Shampooing the hair*
The jury's out on this one too. Some people think shampooing is bad for the hair and strips the hair of vital oils.
Some people use 'cleansing bars' in an attempt to combat the harsh effect of the Shampoo.
Some people just use baking soda mixed with water and pour it over their hair to clean it (Loveya4ever does this and her hair is 4a tailbone length I think) and swear by it.
Some people insist on shampooing on every single wash or their hair will not be 'clean'
I think people should do what works for them, as I am not a shampoo nazi.
This is what I do -
I use (newly discovered and I love it!) Equss Premier shampoo. It's actually designed for horses and is made by the same people that make the much fabled 'Megates' rebuilder.
I only shampoo every other weekend with this, but I clarify every 6 - 8 weeks (typically before an aphogee treatment) with Tresemme deep cleansing shampoo or Profective deep cleansing shampoo.
Now that's enough 'poo' for one journal!
*Washing the hair in braids or 4 box-braids*
Using the crown and glory techinque. This method stops breakage from water trauma.
Braids
Cornrows
Wigs
Weaves
Up-dos
Buns
Twists
Braidouts
Rollersets
Megatek and MN mix
Sulphur mix
The debate - do they really work? For most people yes. For me, hell yes!
Talia and London Diva are my inspirations for Megatek progress.
Evoo, Evco and honey
I drink a minimum of 2 litres of water a day to keep my skin looking right/my body digesting food well and my hair growing. h2O is a must for me! Try it!
Starting as of Jan 2010, I went millitant and cut out all the bad stuff and only eat good stuff. I lost about 2 dress sizes by March as a result and feel fabulous! Also my hair growth took off like you would not beleive!
Do them. Even if you only walk 2 miles a day each day - just please get off your behind and workout! It helps hair growth period!
High protein for hair growth! Pushing for 1 inch per month growth!
Edited in March 2010 - girlies high protein works for hair growth, combined with a regular workout program, lots of water and healthy vegetables. I'm just sayin'.....
BHM, LHCF, Sistaslick articles, hair communities, Macherieamour and other online resources etc
For information and support!
Inspiration, stalking, asking for help and making friends!
Goals and milestones
The journey so far
Where I came from and my mistakes
Genetics and hair in my family
Positive attitude and believing it can work
Never giving up
Taking a different approach
Regular assesments of your hair
Ask opinions and measure the responses
My list of buddies and support from Fotki and the boards - will add to this list!
McWifey
Talia
Whosbotheringme
Luvmi
Tink
Prettyeyes
Looh
GIGI
Tiffanyoneal
Beehymn
Bunnie Honey
Bronzeg
MrsB
Lyoness
DEN
Pinkskates
Sylver2
Leobody
MedMunky
CandyC
Memee1978
Blaquessemami (spelled wrong!)
Fefelicious
Emih
Candies
Wildfire
MrsRaines
MrsOctober
MrsHicks
Luvmesumhair
Wildfire
Nichole23
Flwonline
Carib n' curly
adding more as we speak, you are all appreciated!
3x a week!
Instead of the blow-dryer!
Please wait...